‘Every Cook Must Study Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

Whenever assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.